Hola Mami,
This Easter felt very different from what I was used to… but also meaningful in ways I didn’t expect.
If you grew up like me in the U.S., Easter was all about the day itself. Egg hunts, Easter baskets, photos with the Easter bunny, dressing up, brunch, church… everything centered around Sunday.
But here in Spain, and especially in Málaga, Easter isn’t just a day.
It’s a full week.
And… it’s a whole experience.
How Easter Week Begins (Through the Kids)
One of the things I’ve come to appreciate, is how early the traditions start, especially through the kids.
Even though my children don’t attend a Catholic school, their school still embraces these cultural traditions. They kicked off their Easter break by participating in their own school procession, dressing up and being part of something that is deeply rooted in Spanish culture.
As a mami raising half-Spanish kids, this means a lot to me.
My daughter is also preparing for her First Communion this year, so she had the opportunity to participate in our church’s processions as well.
And let me tell you… they get exhausted.
These are not quick events. They require patience, presence, and energy. Which is why, for now, I’m holding off on signing them up for the larger processions in downtown Málaga.
Semana Santa in Málaga: What It Really Looks Like
Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Málaga is on another level.
People travel from all over Spain and even internationally, just to experience it.
Each day of the week represents a different moment from the Passion of Christ: from His entry into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday, to the Last Supper, the crucifixion on Good Friday, and finally the resurrection on Easter Sunday.
The processions themselves are incredibly detailed and emotional.
Large thrones (“tronos”) carry religious images of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary through the streets, accompanied by penitents in traditional robes, music bands, and crowds that follow each procession for hours.
And when I say crowds… I mean crowds.
If you want a comfortable experience in Málaga city, you have to plan ahead. Seats along the official routes can cost anywhere from 85 to 100 euros per chair. Balconies, whether from private homes, businesses, or restaurants, can range from 150 to 300 euros per person, depending on the day and location.
If you don’t reserve?
You’re in it. Standing, navigating the crowds, sometimes for hours.
We experienced it a couple of years ago, and it’s intense… but unforgettable.
Every Pueblo Does It Differently
What I love most is that every town, every pueblo has its own way of honoring these traditions.
In Mijas Pueblo, where my husband is from, the processions feel much more intimate. The streets are narrow, the hills are steep, and there’s a strong sense of respect. You’re expected to remain quiet as the thrones pass, it’s a very emotional and reverent experience.
In Antequera, just about 30 minutes away, they do something completely different. During a particular procession, they actually run while carrying the throne. The first time I saw a video, I thought it was sped up… but no, they are literally running. It’s powerful and intense in its own way.
And in parts of Córdoba, some processions include reenactments, so the outfits and overall experience feel completely different from what you see in Málaga.
It’s the same tradition… but expressed in so many unique ways.
The Legionarios (One of the Most Unique Moments)
One of the most striking moments during Semana Santa in Málaga is the participation of the Spanish Legion.
The “Legionarios” carry the Christ of Mena and march in a very distinct way, powerful, emotional, and unlike anything else you’ll see during the week.
Learning more about their role and history gave me a deeper appreciation for how layered and symbolic these processions really are.
(And I’ll actually be sharing more about this soon… I have an upcoming interview all about Semana Santa in Málaga, so stay tuned.)
Torrijas: The Taste of Easter in Spain
Another thing that makes this week so special?
The food.
During Semana Santa, you’ll find torrijas everywhere, in cafés, bakeries, restaurants.
They’re often compared to French toast, but they come in so many variations: soaked in milk, wine, or syrup, topped with sugar, cinnamon, or honey.
And here’s the thing… once Easter week is over, they disappear.
It’s one of those seasonal traditions that makes the experience feel even more special.
Faith, Tradition, and Everyday Moments
Church is, of course, a big part of Easter here, not just on Sunday, but throughout the entire week.
There are services, events, and traditions happening almost daily.
And something that felt familiar to me, coming from a Catholic background, is observing Good Friday without eating meat. That’s one tradition that carried over from how I was raised in the U.S., even if everything else around it feels culturally different.
Our Reality This Year (And Letting Go of Expectations)
This year, things didn’t go exactly as planned.
The kids were sick… the same kind of flu I had for weeks. So we kept things simple.
We went to one procession in Mijas Pueblo, had a very late dinner afterward, and spent the rest of the week in a slower rhythm.
I even tried to recreate a bit of what I grew up with, Easter egg hunts, but I couldn’t find plastic eggs anywhere. Looking back, I probably should have ordered them from U.S. Amazon, but being sick for most of the month made it hard to plan ahead.
So instead, we leaned into what we did have.
Cozy mornings.
Gardening.
Trips to plant nurseries.
Arts and crafts at home.
Simple meals.
Time together.
A Different Kind of Easter
It wasn’t the Easter I grew up with.
It wasn’t picture-perfect, no Easter bunny photos, no elaborate Easter Brunch….
But it was real.
And I’m learning that sometimes, the most meaningful moments aren’t the big, elaborate ones…
They’re the quiet ones.
The ones where you slow down, adjust your expectations, and just be with your family.
So if your holiday didn’t look the way you expected…
It can still be beautiful.
Little by little, I’m learning to embrace both versions, the one I came from, and the one I’m growing into.
xoxo,
Julie
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